Tuesday, 11 November 2008

Piccadilly - it sounds so silly


Another early morning.  

I decided to make my way to Picadilly (I don't know why but this name makes me laugh, but it does) via Buckingham Palace. No I didn't see the Queen, and in the nine years I have been in London on and off, I have never seen any members of the Royal Family. Actually that is not true, I have seen Princess Michael of Kent but she scores below par on my star/royal spotting list and so, I am still on the look out for Prince Charles or Prince William or Prince Harry - even the Duchess of Cornwell. It is very unlikely that a Queen 'spotting' will eventuate. If royal rumour is to be believed the Queen is driven, incognito, in a black cab around London unless an official occasion warrants the full pomp and circumstance - imagine how many cab windows I have peered in! Sorry to deviate but London would not be London without a little mention of the Royals - they make this town tick and they are without doubt the number one reason why tourists flock to London at all months of the year, in all temperatures and line up against Buckingham Palace for a little bit of pageantry. 


It was just as you imagine - a brass band pumping out, 'Land of Hope and Glory', policeman on horseback and loads of people clicking off shots and filming videos. The crowds were gathered thick against the gates to the palace, so I enjoyed the band, had a little hum along and continued my walk up the Mall. Just to clarify, 'mall' is pronounced 'mal' not 'mawl' as I have only recently learnt. 

Another little deviation about pronunciation. So many words are not as they seem in the UK, for example Beauchamp Place is pronounced 'beech'm' and so on. There are phonetic differences with most place names that end in hamton, by and ford. Imagine the colour of my cheeks when I finally understood that to sound out every vowel and consonant was not the thing, but rather to swallow my words and gobble the syllables was far more proper. English is not always English, even the King's English...

Moving up the Mall I caught a glimpse of Big Ben through St James's park. More deviation.... It has taken me years to understand that the parks are the Brit's equivalent of the beaches. If the sun makes an appearance (not that often remember) the park becomes the beach. Clothes are abandoned and trunks and bathers (not swimmers or costumes) are worn in the hope of catching a few rays. The mere hint of sunshine and deck chairs are placed on the perfectly manicured lawns, ready for those who want to worship the sun.


I crossed the Mall and walked up towards St James's.  Many streets in London are called only by name, for example St James's is a street, Piccadilly is a street and Knightsbridge is a street, but they are also districts and tube stations -so a very confusing trap for any new kid on the block. Be careful when someone says, meet you in St James's - it could well be one of a number of places.  

St James's, in the heart of Piccadilly, is the street where gentleman clubs prevail. 


Brooks's (above), one of the exclusive male only clubs, along with Boodle's and White's across the street, was founded in 1764. Excuse me as I deviate once more with a little trivia - Brooks's is where the sandwhich was invented. John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwhich, was enjoying a long run of gambling when his hunger got the better of him. He asked for something that could be eaten in one hand so that his card play would not be disturbed -  beef between two slices of toast was the answer. 

Further up the street I turned right into Jermyn Street and did manage a little celeb spotting - that is if Graydon Carter, editor in chief of Vanity Fair magazine counts. He is a distinctive looking man with his glamorous grey locks, so not hard to notice.


If St James's (street) is the home of male bonding then Jermyn Street is all about male shopping. I know there is nothing of great interest for us girlies but I love this quaint little road devoted to the primping of men. With all the retail therapy we women can indulge in, it doesn't seem too much that our men have one little street proffering ties, socks, shavers and hankies.


If you are not eating at the club it is always a pleasure to pop into Wiltons restaurant for a little light luncheon - smoked salmon or lemon dover sole would be the traditional fare. Yes, women are allowed in.


Time to stop thinking about the boys and have a look at Fortnum and Masons. The quintessential English experience. Today I can only show you the restaurant windows as I promised myself no Christmas talk or Christmas snaps before December - and there could be much Christmas talk and millions of Christmas snaps at Fortnum and Masons. 


Fortnums has been recently refurbished and it is very beautiful - a must on any visit to London. I did give in and go in. I could not resist, and I did get very excited about Christmas but that will have to wait .....With my willpower at it's strongest I left reluctantly and walked to Hatchards bookshop, another equally sedate British institution.


I think this book shop is my most favourite and that is saying something for a Francophile like me. At Hatchards it is the old worldliness that seduces; the sweeping spiral staircase that transports you from one floor to another, the stacked and signed copies, the clipped accents of the assistants and the smell, I adore the smell of books on mass.

 Across the road I was tempted to visit the Royal Academy and see the Byzantium exhibition but when this cab came my way, I thought better of it - I jumped in and went to meet my gorgeous daughter for lunch instead.

25 comments:

  1. I love your black and white london ...Thank you for the tour

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  2. Thank you for a fabulous vicarious tour of London! Now I'm going to look at a London webcam just to see what the weather's like...
    http://www.earthcam.com/uk/england/london/

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  3. I agree, Piccadilly does sound silly! I do love London, especially this time of year. The excitment with the Holidays right around the corner.

    Thank you Vicki for reminding me of a wonderful stay in London!!!:)

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  4. Hi Vicki, that was a great trip around London. As ever your photos are fantastic and catch the real essence of London. I love London and visit once or twice a year. I went to Islington for the Country Living Spring Fair this year.
    If you really do want to see the Queen, the place to catch a glimpse is Windsor, that is where she lives and there are tours of the castle each day. My daughter lives in Henley On Thames and has seen Her Majesty at Windsor. hugs Margie.

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  5. Margie, funny you should mention Windsor - I have just driven back to London from Bristol, past Windsor castle. I was thinking that I must go and take the tour of the castle - the problem is I never have enough time when I am in London!

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  6. Loved it- In all my visits to London, have not been to Piccadilly (guess I spend too much time window shopping on Sloane Street!) Loved the tour and your photos...

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  7. Hi Vicki, Love your black and white images. I cannot wait to see your Christmas snaps around town...I will be patient! Your tours are always fabulous. Thank you again for the book. It arrived in the post yesterday and it is as beautiful as I imagined, Carla is so talented! Merci!! Amanda x

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  8. i enjoyed my walk through London today

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  9. You make me laugh Ness - I love our Aussie sense of humour, nothing like it! xv

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  10. I love the black and white photos you took. They remind me of how London must have looked years ago. Isn't it funny how some European countries still have that "Old World " feel to them centuries later?

    While I've never been to London, I have been to Yorkshire,and Leeds. I loved the countryside. You are right about one thing though,it is always raining or misting.

    Kris

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  11. Beautiful photos, Vicki. I love living vicariously through your blog. I have some wonderful memories of London and it's been so long since I've been back, so thanks for reminding me! It's a magical place.

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  12. My grandma was from England, and when I was little and she would mention Picadilly Circus, I had a *much* different idea in my little head of what it would be. I mean, Picadilly Circus -- how fun and lovely does that sound?! Who knew it really meant "traffic jam." :-)

    Fortnum and Mason's may be my favorite London stop. It's just so...London! I haven't been to London in years (2001, I think) but your posts have made me want to run back. I loved your tour! Such great photos.

    And thanks for your comment on my V-Day post. Yes; long live legs, indeed!

    - Laura
    http://shorechic.blogspot.com

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  13. Hey Vicki I've such a fun-time wandering around London through your eyes, thank you. And unlike mine, your direction-finding molecule is excellent.

    One thing it has evoked is the funniest memory of a couple of my 20-something boys, as little lads in their school uniforms having 'fun' with the Aussie colloquilism for Piccadilly. There was a lot of nudging & giggling & sideways glances to see if Mum Millie was shocked! Had to pretend I was while desperately suppressing a massive giggle!
    Millie ^_^

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  14. Hello Vicki! Lovely photos (as always)! You have brought back many, many fond memories of London to me. I can almost feel the cold nipping at my nose! You & Ness do have me thinking....What could Piccadilly possibly mean on the school yard? Hmmm.... my mind is racing with inappropriate thoughts! Too funny!
    Judith~

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  15. Vicki, thank you for a lovely black& white and very artistic trip around London.
    XXX
    V

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  16. Loved the black and white photos too. I always think of the Georgette Heyer books when I hear of Brooks and other men's clubs. How funny it must have been to live in the Regency times when women were not allowed to even walk down the street! Your description of the parks being almost like beaches was very apt - my Aussie husband was amazed when we last visited London in summer at all the flesh on show, especially during lunch hour!
    Clare

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  17. A wonderful, wonderful tour Vicki! Thank you so much for this---your pictures and descriptions made me smile. And we have to wait until December to hear all about F&M's? Oh, the suspense!

    If by chance you do see Wills while you're out and about, be a darling and let him know that I'm still waiting for his call!

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  18. I saw Prince Charles & Camilla just after they got married. They came to Cardiff to present the Six Nations Cup to the Welsh Rugby Team. I met Prince Andrew in Baltimore about 25 years ago. We saw Princess Anne at a Guy Fawkes Bonfire Party and were in the same building as HM and Prince Philip, but they were in the theatre and we were in the bar!

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  19. Thanks for stopping by Vicki. I love your London post. I visited for the first time last year on a business trip to both Paris and London in one week! Obviously that was not enough time. Most of it was sightseeing, but I did sneak in a little (very little) shopping. I actually just got back from Rome last week and am facing jet lag. It was lovely too. A day of shopping in Florence was wonderful. If you or anyone knows what the British meaning for Bubble & Squeak is I would be much appreciative. I'm thinking eggs and bacon?

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  20. Vicki, this post completely enthralled me and captured my imagination. I felt like I was reading a chapter from your book. I've never been as close to London as I was just now. Thank you for the sweet escape.

    Anna :)

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  21. It's deja vu all over again....enjoyed my visit in October, including Wilton Crescent. Thanks for stopping by. I will read yours in future too!

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  22. Vicki you are sooo right about the parks being like beaches! I hadn't thought about it! We must all look so funny.

    I loved your description of this walk. I used to work on Buckingham Palace Road and have taken this trip so so many times but it never fails to throw up something new.

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  23. oh,i love these photos...i was in london a while back and would leap at the chance to go back....thanks for sharring!

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  24. Hello Vicky,
    I just wanted to thank you for your posts on London. I just arrived in the UK for a year of study and was wondering what to do with my big day out in London. I wouldn't have this problem in Paris. Like yourself, I think I'm more French than English at heart, so I thought I would use your posts as a guide.
    I had a wonderful time- espeically Fortnum and Maison. I love my pretty blue-green box and gold ribbon almost as much as the chocolates inside!
    Please keep writing and bloging. I can't wait to get ahold of your new book. It'll keep me satisfied until I can cross the Chanel at Christmas break.
    *Biz*
    Erica

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  25. What a lovely tour of Britania. The black and white photos are superb.

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