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Where to Stay...
I have to confess to something today... Where to stay, is the big question I try and avoid...
It is the toughest one to answer because the answers are never simple... and this is the question that I am asked so often... I spend much of my time in Provence but it has been a very long time since I stayed in accommodation other than our own. When we were renovating our property I tried every hotel... big, small and in-between...I was totally in the know and I had very firm opinions... these days my knowledge is far removed and reduced to hearsay. The problem with recommending places to stay is that we all like different styles. We have different requirements, different aesthetics, different budgets and different dreams... Do you want to experience traditional Provence? Colourful Provence? Contemporary Provence? Or the Côte Sud kind of Provence? Are you searching for small and intimate? Or large and fully serviced?
The other problem is that establishments change. What can be excellent customer service one day can be unpleasant and unhelpful on another. Hotels become tired... not just in a decorative sense... a stay at the beginning of the season may be entirely different to one at the end. Essentially no visits are ever the same and no two experiences alike. Where you stay colours a trip... it can make or break a holiday. Travelling is expensive and time is precious... so getting the 'where to stay' right is of the utmost importance...
Do the research...
The internet can tell a great deal about an establishment. Find out what is available online and visit many websites to get a feel for what you are looking for. Email the particular hotels of interest... ask questions, ask rates, ask anything that you need to know... Always remember you are the client and if they want your business they should welcome your queries with open arms... and respond accordingly...
Use Trip Advisor ratings (one of the best I think) and similar sites as a guide not as a given. It is not always clear whether every rating is genuine and while I hope they are, it is important to read them with an open mind. I have read scathing reviews of hotels that I love and vice-versa... These sites are not definitive guides but they can offer some insights... and they can also mis-inform... (Like the time I arrived in Budapest for a weekend only to be staying 30 kilometres from the centre of the town... my fault entirely because I was naive enough to trust an unknown site without double checking and because I didn't do my research properly...)
Speak to like-minded friends... like-minded being the important word here. There is no point asking your best friend where to stay if she likes camping and you like 5 star luxury... Speak with experienced travellers who are sympatico with your ways.
Narrow your choices. Decide at the outset what kind of accommodation you need. Whether you are travelling with friends, with children or with elderly people... this can change the parameters of your search. Think of the weather... winter travel means that you can stay somewhere more confined, without a pool but travelling in the summer changes all that. A refreshing swim at the end of a long dry day can make all the difference...
Know your budget... There are so many different places to stay in Provence... The starred establishments, the small village hotels, the country guest houses or the simple B&B's... this is where your research can help.
Consult a map... Confirm that the hotels you are thinking about are well located...
Think about travelling off season... The hotel rates drop dramatically outside of the summer season...
Look into Cancellation policies... these can make the decision to stay very easy... some are fair and others can be ridiculously rigid...
Book ahead if travelling in season... I know that planning can seem contrived and can ruin spontaneity but there is nothing worse than searching endlessly for somewhere to stop and being disappointed that you didn't 'get in' to your first choice...
I know that we all want an easy solution to 'where to stay'... me included... but experience has taught me that what you put in in terms of time before your trip will ultimately make all the difference...
A place to start if you are travelling to Provence...
Links worth browsing... These are great lists of places to stay... but make sure to visit each of their unique websites to really get a feel for the properties...
For the Alpilles region and Saint Remy de Provence... here
For the Luberon region of Provence... here
For Avignon... here
For Aix-en-Provence... here
Please don't leave home without your Red Michelin Guide to France... it is invaluable... and once you figure out the symbols it will tell you everything you need to know about travelling in Provence...
I would love to hear where you have stayed and of your experiences travelling in Provence... Which hotels you like, which you don't... Let's chat... tell me all... the good and the bad... xv
V,
ReplyDeletesuch good advice, especially the camper friend vs the 5 star friend. i have made that mistake.
but
i am dying to get to budapest.
any which way i can!!
xx
We once stayed at Chateau Talaud near Avignon, and absolutely loved it. A simply gorgeous and idyllic place to come home to after a busy day of exploring. And the restaurant recommendations offered by Hein... superb! Phil xxx
ReplyDeleteI agree totally that things change and what was great last time may not be as great on your next visit.
ReplyDeleteIf you want to rent a home and be able to shop & cook like a local as we did when we were in your area, we found VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner) very helpful. On their website you click the area you want to stay (Saint Remy for instance or Isle Sur la Sorge) and view properties available. They offer a wide variety of sizes of homes and you are speaking directly with the owner. Most of the properties have very good pictures or you can request more. Our experience was excellent and we hope to be able to duplicate it again.
Sam
Dear Vicki, Although we travel to Europe every year we are not familiar with Provence. Your post comes at the perfect time for we have purchased our tickets for the south of France.
ReplyDeleteOne of our go to information sites has always been "Slow Travel". Recommendations are reliable and come from fellow travelers. The site is beautifully organized and if you have specific questions, fellow travelers will respond.
.. right you are, not everybody looks for the same qualities to rest their head ... Trip Advisor is spectacular, but it's important to understand navigation, places can be rated high for "value" which means easy on the $$$ but just ok for the charm ... so I find combing through the comments is important.
ReplyDeleteI would have to consult past notes for more but three of my favorites in past years (decades) ..
1. Le Hameau in St Paul de Vence, the staff was wonderful and I loved the relaxed feel.
2. La Bastide de Gordes in Gordes was great because in the evening after the tour buses left, you had the beautiful town right outside your door to walk and explore. I understand very crowded in the daytime, but I left after breakfast and returned for dinner.
3. I loved staying in Villeneuve-les-Avignon at Le Prieure Hotel .. but that was many years ago. The charm of the grounds was just spectacular. The rooms were not as charming, but very nice.
I pick places for different reasons, sometimes charming grounds, sometimes location, sometimes for budget. I also find that Red Michelin never lists a place you wouldn't want to stay, even the ones with no stars or rocking chair notations.
Wonderful post .. will try to think of more.
Karen in CT
Thank you so much Karen... wonderful suggestions... xv
DeleteVicky, you are so right about places changing. That has happened to me once. 1st time it was soo fantastic. Next time a new manager and it was awful. I would love to travel through Avignon. If I ever get to go back to France I want you to advise me. Enjoy tis Spring and all the flower's.
ReplyDeleteI stayed at a wonderful watercolor workshop for a week:
ReplyDeleteArts in Provence
Fab meals included & they took us to different towns everyday. PLUS wine with dinner
Their British of course
It's a terrific deal too.
Dear Vicki
ReplyDeleteWe use Trip Advisor before every holiday - but also closely check the hotel's own site. Have found TA reliable. Have used it for years with no bad experiences to date with any hotels after careful research. We weigh comments carefully. If there are 2 or 3 seriously negative current asessments I wouldn't stay there, particularly if they relate to comfort, cleanliness, honesty and helpfulness of staff.
In St Remy we particularly like the Hotel Sous les Figuiers. The rooms are simple, not luxurious but comfortable and clean and most open onto a lovely quiet garden. The staff are really friendly and very helpful. Breakfast is pleasant and in summer outdoors - it's a delight to enjoy bowls of cherries and fresh croissants etc under the trees. You can get something cheaper in village but why not stay to enjoy the lovely ambience and pleasant food.
Also staying again at Hotel Cezanne in Aix en P, though we booked some time ago and the more recent negative comments on staff unhelpfulness and rudeness are a worry. We last stayed 2 years ago and had a comfortable room where everything worked and staff were friendly and helpful. The breakfast was a bit expensive, but decided to try it. The buffet of local fresh fruit (incl. Cavaillon melons), yoghurts, pastries etc was impressive. What really impressed was the chef appearing at our table and offering to make us something special, eg a truffle omelette. Superb and enhanced further by a glass of Ruinart champagne. All part of breakfast service and no extra charge. So not too expensive after all. Don't normally indulge in champagne for breakfast but this was a lovely exception while there.
We try to avoid the hotel consolidators if it's possible and book directly with the hotel, especially good with smaller hotels. You can build up a relationship over time - management usually more helpful to return visitors. Last trip we made the mistake of booking in London through a hotel consolidator but were unable with 24 hours notice to take it up because we were stranded in Bangkok when plane had engine trouble. Emailed consolidator immediately but they refused to refund even though it fitted the cancellation time frame - claimed they couldn't refund because I was notifying by email. Booking by email OK, cancelling by email not OK. Quite a rip-off - would never use that consolidator again.
Very timely article Vicki - we leave in a week for our travels to London, Paris, French Alps and Provence. It is a year in the planning and sooo much time reading Tripadvisor reviews - not one, but many of the reviews of the same establishments to be sure the basic consensus is good. I find often accommodation can make or break a holiday due to experiences so most importantly is the interaction via email re queries. Tripadvisor is the first place I go - and now we have everything booked I am hoping it turns our wonderfully. The forums in particular are really helpful - using the search engine for your interest can bring up endless conversations about that subject, which saves so much time on arrival. Thanks for the reminder about the Michelin maps - need to get ours for Annecy and Provence regions so hope we can buy them there!
ReplyDeleteAlso enjoyed your tips re TGV and will bear them in mind ... much appreciated xx
I have been reading and writing for Trip Advisor and feel that they do a particularly good job of allowing you to 'know in advance'. When we stayed in Paris at the wonderful Hotel Caron de Beau Marchais, a member of Trip Advisor posted their personal pictures of the rooms. I was able to see that the room I had reserved, although the best price, did not offer the light I so sorely wanted. Had I not looked at the site, I would have been in the dark....so to speak.
ReplyDeleteVery good advice, dear Vicki...
ReplyDeleteI love TripAdvisor, yet also wonder which reviews are legit.
"Do your research" is the best way to go, you're right...
Merci!
xoxo,
- Irina
What great advice thanks Vicki I hope I get the chance to travel there one day I have only ever entered France from the ocean when I was working for P&O cruises so it would be lovely to actually stay at a location one time I know the right lady to ask!! :))
ReplyDeleteThanx Vicki - another post to my "All things French" folder on my computer.
ReplyDeleteI have not been to Provence for such a long time, but next year I'm doing a one month langauge immersion at Institut de Francais in Villefranche sur Mer (It is my BIG Birthday present to myself!).... so come the weekends ...have time ...will travel...cannot wait!!
Caroline
Dear Caroline
DeleteVillefranche is lovely and there's a small chapel near the water with paintings by Jean Cocteau (there's also a good brocante once a week I think but can't remember the day). It can get a bit crowded when the cruise boats come in so if you want to escape them for awhile, take the bus around to Beaulieu-sur-Mer only a few kilometres away in the Monaco direction and visit Kerylos (check opening times on the net first) a wonderful villa built during the belle epoque. Though this one is designed along Ancient Greek lines. Also the walk from there along the waterfront footpath to St Jean, Cap Ferrat, is a heavenly and you will pass David Niven's former home, a lovely little pink villa by the water. From St Jean you can walk up the hill to the Villa Ephrussi-Rothschild, fascinating villa and fabulous garden which deserve a full half-day (again, check opening times first) and there's a pleasant little lunch/coffee place there. Have a wonderful time! Pamela
Pamela - thank you sooooo much for this information! Again I will add it to my "french folder" and have it with me for my stay next year. Carline
DeleteHi Vicki,
ReplyDeleteVisiting here through The Enchanted Home...
I would love to be a follower! I travel to France a lot and have rented houses in Provence twice. Had to laugh about your approach to "where to stay" requests. I do exactly as you do (recommend Trip Advisor). Beautiful blog.....Janey
Vicki great advice for the traveler. I will tell about where we stayed, yet with the caveat that they go online and check out the details for themselves.
ReplyDeleteI hope you will come see my Annie Sloan Projects revealed!
xoxo
Karena
Art by Karena
Hi Vicki, I've enjoyed your travel series and I'm taking notes. I spent a week in Provence and fell in love with the region. Staying at the Mecure in Avignon was a good choice. It was a great location for doing day trips from in our car rental to other towns. We liked it so much we hope to do it again within the next couple of years. Loved your interview with Tina.
ReplyDelete~Emily
The French Hutch
So happy to find your beautiful blog and really really enjoyed your wonderful interview at Enchanted Home. My husband has relatives in France and we visit one to two times a year. Attending the most beautiful country wedding in Provence last year, and it is still very alive and well in my mind, just such a magical trip. Lucky you to live there. Will happily subscribe to your beautiful blog so I can keep up with it.
ReplyDeleteYou are a wealth of information! My husband and I are planning a trip to France next year and I will save all of this information including everyone responses here. Lots of great 'pearls of wisdom' and I thank you all!! I too have subscribed to your blog to follow and liked you on Facebook:)
ReplyDeleteCheers everyone!!
I've stayed at four or five hotels in Provence but my favorite is Mas de la Brune, just outside Eygaliers. A 16th century mas renovated with about 15 rooms, it is lovely and very private -- like staying in your own mini castle in the South of France. Set in the country, you do need to get in your car to drive wherever you want to go, but it's so centrally located that it's an easy drive to just about anywhere -- maybe 15 minutes to St. Remy, about 30 minutes to Avignon or Isle Sur la Sorgue, etc. The gardens and pool are beautiful and feel very private, the staff is great. Breakfast outside the entrance is charming. It's a little slice of heaven!
ReplyDeleteYour blog is just incredible. I am a incurable Francophile in fact we have a trip to France planned in July and we cannot wait. I also really enjoyed your wonderful interview, you are a wealth of information and I can see how I could easily spend hours here! Am your new follower.
ReplyDeletedo the research is right, but sometimes it's fun to just fly by the seat of your pants!
ReplyDeleteHi Vicki, I am over from Tina's blog. I loved the guest post there. I am so happy to be a new follower!
ReplyDeleteStacy
Hello Vicki,
ReplyDeleteGreat advice, your whole series on traveling to Provence. Thank you for sharing so kindly. My absolute favorit place to stay is with LA MADONE
in APT. Especially the baroque suite is simply unforgetable,and Natalie and Jean Bernard the perfect hosts.
.greetings from South Africa-Colette
After seeing your terrace in Provence, I can see why everyone wants your opinion! Beautiful!
ReplyDeleteExcellent interview over at The Enchanted Home. I am happy to now be following you. I can see why she said all she did about you, its true! Wonderful blog.
ReplyDelete