illustration - paper fashion
On the Road...
Once you are on the road... after the satellite navigation is working, the maps are opened and the directions duly noted... all that remains is to understand the French way of 'doing driving'... The French own the roads, maybe those from Belgium vie for the title a little but the French, they are the clear winners on the roads. The French take on a different persona behind the wheel. The relaxed man or woman opens the car door, plants their derriere on the seat, engages the clutch and as the ignition turns and the gears shift their personalities go through a transformation. These are not the relaxed and patient, I-have-all-the-time-in-the-world personas that I see every day chatting away in the pharmacies, the banks or the boulangeries... as if time is irrelevant. No matter how long the queue behind them... the conversation about their health, the sharing of their personal life or the crustiness of their baguette will be told. Behind the wheel these drivers are not the same punters who spend an hour or two everyday enjoying their lunch... behind the wheel the French mean business.
When driving a car in Provence...
Don't be intimidated... It is well to remember that you are entitled to fifty percent of the road. Most of the roads that aren't on the autoroute are narrow... most of the French drivers take the middle route... it pays to stand your ground some of the time or you will spend a large part of your holiday in reverse... Think of a it like a game of bluff...
Driving on the other side of the road... is not easy, if it's not your natural side... a little like 'your side of the bed'... it's hard to change and requires much more concentration than normal. I move between left hand drive and right hand drive every month so I have one little reminder that keeps me where I am meant to be. I know that the steering wheel must always be in the middle of the road... so in those moments that I am slightly disorientated, I mentally concentrate on that.
Don't rush the roundabouts... Provence is roundabout kingdom... every small village, town or city is full of them. Traffic lights are not de-rigeur in Provence. I love a roundabout because they give me time if my sense of direction is lacking. I suggest to friends when they visit that if they are not sure of which exit to take, to keep going around and around until they are. Taking the wrong exit, because you feel stressed to make a decision, is the worst decision... it can only go downhill after that. There is no shame in deliberating and besides it's only fair that we amuse the locals a little.
Road signs in Provence are easy and as a region I think it is very well sign posted. If you have a general idea of where the major towns are and in which direction you are heading then, even if you get lost, the signs will generally point you in the right way. When entering a village or smaller town always follow the sign that says centre ville... this will inevitably lead you to where you want to be and a place to park your car. In the big cities and towns, the one panel that has saved me countless times and enabled me to get on the right road home is toutes directions... all directions. When in doubt take this one as it always leads to an interchange where you will be able to find the right route for your destination. Sometimes it may not feel like it is the correct sign to follow... but it is. Leaving towns and cities can be hard work and knowing this will save you a lot of heartache... and arguments with your co-pilot...
Autoroute driving is the fastest way from point to point and I recommend using it. It is a romantic idea to meander the back roads but I prefer to go off the beaten track when I am in the vicinity of my destination, not as a way to get from A to B. Don't think I am suggesting not to explore... it is by far the best way to see a country... but France is large and so is Provence... and there is much to see... Choose your routes carefully. The autoroute is fast and that can be daunting, so stick in the right hand lane until you find your comfort zone. Drivers on the autoroute are intolerant of slow cars that hog the fast lane... I mean really intolerant! The roads in France are magnificently maintained and in top condition but you must pay to use the autoroute... cash or a credit card work... so have them ready. It is a two fold system called the péage... the first stop is to collect a ticket and the second is to exit and pay. Symbols overhead alert you to the cash or the credit card paying lane... Try not to get that wrong... I have, much to the annoyance of the 'racing car' drivers behind me and believe me when I say... backing out is the ultimate humiliation...
Car parking... I learnt to park... really park... in Provence. The car parks are small and the spaces really tight..... so tight, that the passengers need to climb out first... If you hire a people mover be very careful about the head hight of the vehicle... car parks are also low and don't automatically accommodate all vehicles... Yes, I have managed to jam the car into a car park that is too low for my vehicle... all in all one of life's most embarrassing moments... So a word of caution... read the height restrictions before you barrel in... exiting is not pretty..
We stop for pedestrians and are cautious at pedestrian crossings... it's not quite the same in Provence. It is every man for himself, so don't take offence if you are blasted for being courteous to those on foot... Remember every Frenchman behind the wheel is in a hurry...
Filling up the car in Provence... sans plomb... unleaded... gazole... diesel... Getting petrol on the weekend can be difficult because the stations are self serve and credit card only. This isn't a hardship... the problem is that the bowsers only take French credit cards... no foreign cc's and no cash... If you need to buy petrol on a weekend the autoroute is the best option and the larger ones are the most likely to be manned. If you do end up in this situation it is not uncommon to offer a French driver the cash for the use of his or her credit card... Strange, but that's how it works...
Happy driving... and watch out for those problematic speed cameras and pesky gendarmes... they are in hiding... xv
These might make you want to jump in a car and explore Provence...
and my take on Provence...
Oh Vicki. This is such a fantastically informative series - merci beaucoup, mon amie! J x
ReplyDeleteDear Vicki
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for the road tips, especially the one about "toutes directions". Wish we'd known that years ago, it would have saved many an anxious moment and the building tension between driver and navigator.
The French seem to believe the Italians are very scary drivers. Some years ago we spent a wonderful fortnight at a demi-pension residence right by the water at Beaulieu-sur-Mer where almost all the other guests were older French couples. They took a great interest in us because we were the only Australians there (apparently the only ones in years), and to them we were just babies. The day before we left to drive on to Italy, almmost half the people at breakfast stopped by our table to wish us well and to warn us to be very careful driving in Italy because they were not like the French, they were "crazy and very dangerous"! The warmth and friendliness of the French we met every day at breakfast and dinner on the terrace was quite wonderful and so different from many travellers' perceptions or fears.
It was true that the Italians were even faster and more impatient than the French, but they were very skilled drivers. In over a month in Italy we didn't see a single road accident. However, driving on the very very narrow winding roads of the Cinque Terre is truly terrifying, probably my most scary experience anywhere (apart maybe from the drive from Amalfi to Ravello).
Too funny - especially the part about parking. We North Americans are so used to big cars and to see all the little cars packed into parking spots have us wondering. I don't know how the French (& British for that matter) get those cars into those tiny little spots.
ReplyDeleteOh Vicki, what an excellent article!! I feel much better prepared to drive in France - what a relief. Merci!
ReplyDeleteExcellent post Vicki. If you ever stop by Seattle, I will invite you to participate to one of my "France travel workshops" as a special consultant ;-) You would be a hit! Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)
ReplyDeleteLast year in the Beaujolais we got caught searching for petrol on a public holiday. We were sure that our credit card with chip and 4 digit PIN would work in the nearby automatic service station. Of course it didn't. We drove around looking for an open service station. Not sure what I was thinking. It was May Day! We stopped someone out cycling with his family. He kindly accompanied us back to the station and used his wife's credit card. We then gave him the cash as Vicki describes. He was more than happy to help us out.
ReplyDeleteAre you just having so very much fun????
ReplyDeleteDear Vicky, Just a reminder that in France you drive on the right side. I know that you were talking about England when you mentioned driving on the other side of the road, but some of your readers may have been confused.
ReplyDeleteAll good advice especially the "take your time in the roundabouts". There is no hurry, it gives you time to make the right decision.
Hello Gina...
DeleteThank you... I was a bit ambiguous...
My readers come from all over the world... so hopefully they understand which side is which...!
xv
Oh dear now I am nervous ... we are driving off the highway from Annecy to Provence - taking the long scenic route - because we want to see more. Once in Provence my husband is driving and I will read this to him so he is prepared - mind you sounds like the French are similar to the hills drivers in WA ... We arrive in Provence in late April and your posts are so wonderful to see, preparing us for our arrival in Isle sur Sorgue and St Remy and beyond ... then to Paris for our wedding anniversary!!! Such exciting times for a country girl from Western Australia xxx
ReplyDeleteDon't be nervous. We have leased cars twice in France, once for 6 weeks and once for 8 weeks. Each time I predominantly drove as I am a very nervous driver. My husband was responsible for parking in any tiny parking places. The 2nd time we had a GPS and it made a huge positive difference.
DeleteNo, I totally agree--don't worry at all!--Vicki is just giving a heads up to some of the potentially wacky behavior of French driving in the South. You are going to have a beautiful drive in front of you. I would just suggest that, once off the highway, if you see a driver (or two) that are right, right behind you, just pull a little off to the side to let them pass in front of you when you can. As Vicki mentioned, they are in a hurry and you most certainly will not be. Hoping that you will both enjoy your wonderful trip to the fullest.
DeleteVicki, this made me laugh and remember the drive with my then boyfriend's family from Paris to the coast where we were due to catch the ferry to their home on Ile d'Yeu -- I didn't think that I, let alone our relationship, would survive that drive! And parking their car in their petite garage in Paris... makes my palms sweat just to think about it! Thanks for the tips, but I'm determined to not take the wheel in France again any time soon!
ReplyDeleteWhy is it I can understand everything you say, but the guidebooks or maps are impossible? Maybe a woman needs to write for other women so we understand the terms exactly. I will never never forget the evening we all ventured out for dinner in 1 car, only to still be trying to find the way home at 2AM. Daughter-in-law proclaimed she would remember the way, we were at a rented villa on the 1st day, and no one knew where we were or where we went. Impossible'
ReplyDeletesoo helpful + funny! Good show, VA. xxpeggybraswelldesign.com
ReplyDeleteHaving rented a car in Paris and driven to Arles and surrounding Provencal towns, I can honestly say "been there, done that". We had a horrendous experience driving through France. One I don't care to repeat lol. Shiree'
ReplyDeleteOh la la, chere Vicki!!! Thank you for such an informative post, so helpful. With my nerves, I better stick with buses and trains! ;)
ReplyDeleteBises,
- Irina
I live in Provence and I really enjoy reading your comments. Sincerely
ReplyDelete... so fun to read .. you're so right ... I find the roads in Provence very nice .. and easy to find your way .. great post, as usual ... Karen in Ct
ReplyDeleteI love Provence but have not been for a couple of years now since the £ took a nose dive against the euro. To help my longing to go back I have treated myself to you book and love it. The photographs are wonderful and I want to fill my English garden with roses!!
ReplyDeleteThat's a fun read,
ReplyDeletecool and helpful tips too. Thanks.
And enjoy!
Oh this was so spot on. I loved it and saved it for this morning when I could take it all in.
ReplyDeleteI am not able to add much (ahem) but will just suggest what I wrote above for Vicki Lee johnston about letting others pass in front of you if you are going slowly on back roads. One more thing: at least in Arles, you have to pay for your gas/petrol in advance as there have been too many cars taking off without paying recently! :O
Vicky, You have got a lot of MOXIE. I tried to drive in Ireland and my Cousin took off 2 days to drive me around. I almost went back to my old way Wrong side, you can forget. I was laughing all through this post, Paris is frighting in a cab. Vicky,
ReplyDeletebe safe, and have a wonderful time. yvonne
Being a native Asian driver and used to the chaotic streets of the third world, I feel like a confident global driver. But driving in the cliff-hugging roads of Corsica with aggressive locals intimidated me enough to cut short a 6-day trip! Compared to that, driving through the countryside of France is a like being in a smooth ferris wheel. I loved the roundabouts.
ReplyDeleteMore great advice! Although the French do drive on the "right" side, if you're American.
ReplyDeleteWhen we were traveling (and driving) in Ireland, my Mom said, "Nobody in this country is in a hurry...until they get into a car." Sounds like that's true for more countries than Ireland!
And you're right - you just have to act fearless and stand your ground. Otherwise you'll never get anywhere!
For once I'm kind of glad I don't drive..
ReplyDeleteProvencial roundabouts. mon dieu!